Remembering History in Berlin

Berlin was great for many reasons – art, food, cooler weather (wearing pants again!), seeing an old friend – but one thing that really stood out to me was the variety of ways the city remembers its past.  By comparison, the US is pretty lousy at this, especially when it comes to taking responsibility for our actions.  There are more museums and monuments in Berlin than a person could possibly visit in one trip, but here are some that stuck with me:

The Topography of Terror recounts the establishment of the SS and Gestapo in extreme detail.  There are so many stories you can tell about World War II and the Holocaust.  I thought this was a really interesting point of view.

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A missing house in the old Jewish Quarter, where the building was directly hit by aerial bombardment and all residents died.  The memorial is dedicated to the feeling of absence.

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The Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe is controversial both for its lack of direct symbolism (thought its not hard to find your own meaning) and for the high-value land on which it stands.  I thought it was extremely powerful.  You move through a maze of concrete slabs, creating your own path, as the ground dips and the slabs rise above you, creating a strong sense of overwhelm.  This feeling is often interrupted by kids playing laughing as they chase each other through the maze, which our friend John noted creates a discomfort that in its own way feels like an important part of the memorial.

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One of the simplest remembrances was the most moving for me.  Small brass plaques in the cobblestones commemorate the residents of the building you’re standing in front of, stating their name, birth date, and what happened to them during the war.  These plaques are donated by the victims’ families.

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Tiara